There totally is something new under the sun: the nearodesics actually solve a problem Fuller never even got close to – making a dome that really scales…

I’ve been a fan and builder domes and hexayurts for years. Thanks for your work, which I will spend more time later.

In the meantime, you should know that Buckminster Fuller himself designed a simple and waste-free plywood dome, later perfected by Steve Miller. See http://www.sover.net/~triorbtl for details. If you want technical instructions from his Back Home articles, email me.

Also, Chuck Henderson observed and solved the same problem 40 years ago–and received Fuller’s blessing in person–with his http://conicshelter.com

There is nothing new under the sun.

Sincerely,
Andrew Durham

The Quad dome presents a different challenge, since the flat roof would tend to sag downwards if a frame was made… you know, you could make a very strong and rigid framework for that one out of dimensional lumber:

Make 4 frames that are the “roofs” that you are leaning together. A bit of work with beveled and compound angles, but not too complex, and a regular chop saw (or handsaw, using jigs) will suffice.

At the six point junction, put one eye bolt through each timber, vertically, eye facing inwards (as you look at the structure) a few cm from the end of the timber.

At the three point junctions, it’s more tricky since you want re-usability… I would use heavy, perforated metal strapping on inner and outer sides of the junction with at least 2 bolts on each side of the junction, and another piece of metal strapping shaped like a flat “U” that wrapped around the whole junction and bolted to the inner timber at the junction from the outside sunk into a tee nut on the inner timber, as well as having at least two bolts attaching the strapping to the inner timber.

With this method you would have to let the inner timber in a bit to accommodate the strapping, but once assembled it should be very stiff.

OR…

Back 1″ insulating panels with plywood (1/4″ or so?), face the plywood inwards, make 6 or 8 evenly spaced small holes near each edge of the joins and “stitch” the panels together with cordage after you tape it up outside. You would probably pre-stitch the compound panels first.

LOTS of ways to do this I think…

What is the wall height?

The center height?

The distance across the floor?

Possible to install guttering at the bottom of the frame (just above ground level) for rain-water catchment?

Final question: Do you see a simple way to double the height, with a second round of frame at the ground level? That way, one possibly could frame a freestanding large loft inside and add about 1/3 to the actual living area floor space.

I’m looking at the triangles/squares and imagining inverting them and am not seeing that working. Am guessing that it is not possible to create a six- or eight-foot tall base frame that a tri-dome could sit atop.

Looking forward to seeing the numbers. And seeing if I can’t put up a full-size model this summer.

Am intending to play with the paper model this week.

And…. Am wondering it one of these would leak as does the typical geodesic dome. (I’ve yet to know anyone who built and lived in one who didn’t suffer tremendous water intrusion, including Dave Jensen who built his in 1959 using a Buckminister Fuller-licensed kit.)

Best,
kwc

Anyone making these for Burning Man 2010?